the road | the food | a new direction

Month: November 2014 (Page 1 of 3)

Gumbo Shop, New Orleans LA

REVIEW

You are a tourist, staying in a French Quarter hotel. You don’t have a car (or maybe you’d just like to stroll the Quarter and duck into a restaurant for dinner). You’re not in the mood to dress up. You don’t want to spend a lot of money. You are not asking for the ultimate examples of the local specialties, but neither are you a LAF rube (did we hear someone say the Court of Two Sisters?) You just want some good things to eat, in pleasant surroundings, with a bit of that French Quarter glow. Continue reading

Carabé, Florence Italy

REVIEW

From the left: apricot, "fruit salad," banana, melon, and fig. It's all called "gelato," but the quantity of dairy greatly varies, depending on the flavor and gelateria. Fruit flavors tend to have less milk, and the flavors we tried had little or none; they seemed to be, essentially, sorbets or cremolatas.

From the left: apricot, “fruit salad,” banana, melon, and fig. It’s all called “gelato,” but the quantity of dairy greatly varies, depending on the flavor and gelateria. Fruit flavors tend to have less milk, and the flavors we tried had little or none; they seemed to be, essentially, sorbets or cremolatas.

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John’s Famous Stew, Indianapolis IN

REVIEW

A little-discussed feature of Indy cuisine is the frequency with which stew is encountered on local menus. This homely dish is found in taverns and sandwich shops often enough for one to assume the local folks have a particular fondness for the stuff. One great place to sample it is at John’s Famous Stew, in the working-class section of Indy west of the river. Continue reading

Kevin’s Hamburger Heaven, Chicago IL

REVIEW

Let’s face it: Kevin’s Hamburger Heaven, with its grease-stained parking lot and semi-industrial neighborhood location, looks like a dump. But don’t be fooled: inside, Kevin’s is surprisingly spiffy. This supreme 24/7 grease joint has been open since 1988 and gives the appearance of a much older eatery. The waitresses are diner veterans: efficient, no-nonsense ladies who will take good care of you. There are a few tables, but the counter stools give the best view of the short-order action. Continue reading

Bob Roth’s New River Groves, Davie FL

REVIEW

If you haven’t spent much time in non-Disney Florida since the 1960s, you wouldn’t recognize it. Old, kitschy Florida has almost completely disappeared. Even now, the last vestiges are rapidly being replaced by the brand new. It’s no longer the state of glass bottom boats, the Weeki Wachee mermaids, and Jackie Gleason (although, except for Jackie Gleason, those still exist, if barely). For a sense of what’s been happening, see John Sayles’ film Sunshine State. Continue reading

LAF in the A.M. November 24th, 2014

A Morning Menu of Stories We Think You’ll Find Interesting

Fralinger’s Salt Water Taffy Escaping the Boardwalk

Zachary Levi Visits Cafe du Monde for The Getaway

Shooting, Robbery at Kevin’s Hamburger Heaven in Chicago

An Interview with Tony Luke Jr.

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Checking In at: Blue Swan Diner, Oakhurst NJ

First time at a diner is always chancy. There are different levels of diner in New Jersey. You have to peg your food order to the diner level. We’ve got a few near where we live that does well with dishes beyond the diner basics. With others, it’s best to stick to sandwiches, breakfast, onion rings, you know? We misread the Blue Swan; had it pegged a notch too high, so we’ll take some of the responsibility for the lackluster food. Credit where credit’s due: our waiter was terrific. Continue reading

LAF in the A.M. November 23rd, 2014

A Morning Menu of Stories We Think You’ll Find Interesting

Po-Boy Fest in NOLA Today

Review of Arthur Bryant’s Sauce

Looking Back at Hope Lancarte, Matriarch of Joe T. Garcia’s

Two Limited Edition Holiday Flavors at Garrett

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Woodside Farm Creamery, Hockessin DE

REVIEW

Woodside Farm calls their ice cream “Farm Fresh,” and this is literally true. The ice cream they make and sell is produced from milk provided by the Jersey cows right here on their farm. This ice cream is extraordinarily thick and dense, with an almost chewy texture. It’s not too sweet, and as it warms up it softens rather than melts into a puddle. The milk from the small Jersey cows on this farm is especially rich in butterfat and protein, and the resulting ice cream, no matter which flavor you choose, tastes most of all of dairy richness. This is among the finest ice creams we’ve ever had the pleasure of spooning into, but its creamy intensity might be too overwhelming for daily consumption. Continue reading

LAF in the A.M. November 22nd, 2014

A Morning Menu of Stories We Think You’ll Find Interesting

Taste Test of Gluten-Free Dinner Breads for Thanksgiving

Watch Texas Pie Company Make Pecan Pie

Ben’s Chili Bowl Stands By Bill Cosby

Boudin Capital of the World

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Checking In at: School Street Bistro, Rochester VT

School Street Bistro opened at the end of 2012 in the space formerly occupied by The Village Porch. School Street almost looks like just another house in Rochester, save for all the people dining on the extensive porch. Eugenie Smith, who used to manage The Porch, runs the front of the house while husband Brent is the chef. Together, they lease the restaurant from the owners of the former Village Porch. Continue reading

LAF in the A.M. November 21st, 2014

A Morning Menu of Stories We Think You’ll Find Interesting

A Dozen Great American Food Cities

Best Cheesesteak in Philly

Becky’s Diner of Portland ME Hoping to Offer Health Insurance This Year

Guns N’ Roses N’ Deli

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Harry’s Bishops Corner, West Hartford CT

Connecticut is packed with LAF-worthy pizzerias. The bar has been set awfully high. Can it be possible that Harry’s Bishops Corner clears that bar? With room to spare, based on the Fra Diavolo pie we enjoyed.
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LAF in the A.M. November 20th, 2014

A Morning Menu of Stories We Think You’ll Find Interesting

Thanksgiving In Louisville

Cinerama with Cupcakes

Lo-Lo’s Chicken & Waffles Opening in Gilbert AZ

24 Pie Places In and Around Austin TX

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