the road | the food | a new direction
If you find yourself near the southern shores of Lakes Erie or Michigan, in the states of Ohio or Indiana, look for a place that serves up the local lake perch. It’s not hard to find in these parts, but try to find a spot that uses fresh, not frozen, fish. One of our favorites is the New Sandusky Fish Company in Ohio. Continue reading
Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory is one of the most understated ice cream parlors we’ve ever visited. It’s basically a counter inside a small historic old building. There’s little need for ice cream-themed razzle-dazzle inside when the stunning Brooklyn waterfront serves as an incomparable dining room outside. Continue reading
If you’re out for breakfast in Montana, one thing we guarantee you’ll find on the menu are cinnamon rolls, probably made in-house. In our experience, they are as mandatory as biscuits in a Southern café, a situation which makes us very happy. We love cinnamon rolls! Continue reading
Most of what we sampled at The Chowda House was good; some was mediocre. It’s good enough, though, to warrant a return visit to explore more of the menu. That name almost kept us away. It’s a pretty good rule of thumb that when a restaurant uses cutesy names like “chowda” instead of chowder, you’re dealing with a strictly-for-tourists joint. But that rule is violated here. Not that Red Bank is any kind of tourist magnet to begin with but Chowda House, across the street from the train station, is fairly unobtrusive and not in the choicest part of town. If they want to survive they’ll have to click with locals and commuters. Continue reading
It’s possible to be served an Italian hot dog in the Newark area at a restaurant with more soul, more sass, but few dog houses can compete with the taste of a Charlie’s Italian dog. What makes a Charlie’s dog special is that each item in the sandwich is a little bit, but noticeably, better than at most other places. The hot dogs themselves are more flavorful, the potatoes are superb and crisp, and the onions and peppers are brighter, too. We recommend getting a double. In fact, we always recommend a double when ordering an Italian hot dog. Not only is it easier to eat (you get a 180 degree section of bread, rather than the awkward 90 degrees), but it just feels right, in the same way that getting a double brat in Wisconsin feels more right than a single. Continue reading
When it comes to food for the visitor, Las Vegas is a funny place. All the attention goes to the casinos, for three things: the upscale restaurants run by nationally known chefs, the buffets, and the old-time bargains like 99-cent shrimp cocktails. People forget that Las Vegas is a big city and, like all big cities, there are plenty of superb places to eat around town. We guarantee that the 2 million folks living in the metropolitan area don’t limit their dining to The Strip. You just have to know where to go. Continue reading
Joe Tess sells carp. Not for stocking the pond in your Japanese garden, but for eating. Most Americans do not consider carp much of an eating fish (although it does find its way into gefilte fish), but here in Nebraska and the surrounding states, it’s an inexpensive treat. Especially when someone else does the cleaning and cooking. Continue reading
The Bozeman, Montana airport not only serves the college town of Bozeman, but is also a popular point of arrival for those planning a trip to Yellowstone. Bozeman is additionally, as far as we can tell, the only destination in Montana to which east coast residents can get a non-stop flight. Whatever the reason you find yourself at Bozeman Yellowstone International, we recommend the following course of action upon arrival: drive about 30 miles west (practically next door in Montana terms) to the tiny town of Willow Creek and dine in a 1910 saloon. Continue reading
As soon as you walk in you are hit with a greeting of “Hi, may I help you?” Of course, if you’re new here then at least a quick scan of the overhead menu will be necessary. So step aside and listen to the regulars place their orders: it’s like another language. Folks here are very specific about how they want their meats cut, their meals prepared. Slice this cut of beef in such-and-such a manner from that side, extra meat on a roll. None of these options appear on the menu, mind you; they are simply the requests of experienced barbecue eaters who know what they like. Newcomers can get flustered and overwhelmed. Continue reading
Mammy’s Cupboard is a classic piece of vernacular architecture and, as such, is well worth a visit for that reason alone. How often do you see a restaurant in the shape of a mammy? She’s been spruced up, and made ethnically vague: if you mixed all the different peoples of the world in a jar, and shook them up, you might get today’s Mammy. But here’s the kicker: this Esperanto mammy serves some superlative pies and cakes! Continue reading
The best fried clams in America can be found in the Ipswich-Essex area of Massachusetts, but it’s not the only place to find good fried clams. The hand-breaded whole-bellied clams fried up by Lobster Claw, while not quite at Ipswich level, can more than hold their own against most challengers. These clams are not as gushy and sea-briny as those at The Clam Box, but they are far superior to the fried clam strips found in most parts of the country. Lobster Claw’s clams are probably a good entry point for novices who approach the consumption of the entire clam with some trepidation. Continue reading
We love to try the local cuisine when we travel — we’re LAFers, after all! — but it would be nice to have at our fingertips a list of the best burgers, dogs and, perhaps, pizza, wherever we might be. So, while we crave steamed crabs plastered with Old Bay, crab cakes with big pearlescent lumps, and Maryland crab soup with a kick, we also enjoy the occasional palate refresher when we’re in Baltimore, and a hunk of crusty, flame-cooked beef, as served by Kooper’s Chowhound Burger Wagon, fits that bill perfectly. The trick is in finding it. Continue reading
We’ve traveled in Maine many times, but rarely have we ventured more than a few miles from the awe-inspiring coast. A visit to the Bangor State Fair brought us further inland in Maine than we’ve ever been, and lucky we were, as our search for dinner in the area turned up a gem in the nearby town of Brewer. Located on the banks of the Penobscot River, well out of town down Route 9, the Eagles Nest serves Maine down-home cooking to a mostly local crowd. Continue reading
We found Esposito’s, not far from the NJ/NY border, to be a thoroughly ordinary New Jersey pizza joint with one exception: service is unusually attentive and caring. Nothing we sampled was less than OK, mind you, but neither did anything rise above that level, although the food looked particularly good. Better ingredients would do wonders for the place. As it is, if we lived nearby we might stop in on occasion, but it doesn’t rise to LAF levels. Continue reading
Dellveneri’s is an inconspicuous neighborhood bakery about a block off Rutland’s main north-south drag. The Sunday morning we showed up there wasn’t much other than doughnuts for sale (and some great-looking bakery pizza), but those doughnuts looked good. Three of the four doughnuts we tried were just OK, superior to Dunkin’ but not LAF-worthy. That fourth doughnut, however, was special. Continue reading
The hours are brief and variable, the menu limited (and, likewise, variable), so it’ll take at least a little forethought and checking to pay The Wild Fern a visit. The small effort required, however, will be more than repaid, for this is one of the most unique restaurants in Vermont. Calling it a restaurant, in fact, doesn’t feel quite right, because it’s about as close as you can get to stepping into someone’s personal vision (that of Heather Lynne) without actually trespassing. Her blog states, “No Hostile Vibrations!” Yes, you have entered Crunchy Vermont. Continue reading
You are a tourist, staying in a French Quarter hotel. You don’t have a car (or maybe you’d just like to stroll the Quarter and duck into a restaurant for dinner). You’re not in the mood to dress up. You don’t want to spend a lot of money. You are not asking for the ultimate examples of the local specialties, but neither are you a LAF rube (did we hear someone say the Court of Two Sisters?) You just want some good things to eat, in pleasant surroundings, with a bit of that French Quarter glow. Continue reading
From the left: apricot, “fruit salad,” banana, melon, and fig. It’s all called “gelato,” but the quantity of dairy greatly varies, depending on the flavor and gelateria. Fruit flavors tend to have less milk, and the flavors we tried had little or none; they seemed to be, essentially, sorbets or cremolatas.
A little-discussed feature of Indy cuisine is the frequency with which stew is encountered on local menus. This homely dish is found in taverns and sandwich shops often enough for one to assume the local folks have a particular fondness for the stuff. One great place to sample it is at John’s Famous Stew, in the working-class section of Indy west of the river. Continue reading
Let’s face it: Kevin’s Hamburger Heaven, with its grease-stained parking lot and semi-industrial neighborhood location, looks like a dump. But don’t be fooled: inside, Kevin’s is surprisingly spiffy. This supreme 24/7 grease joint has been open since 1988 and gives the appearance of a much older eatery. The waitresses are diner veterans: efficient, no-nonsense ladies who will take good care of you. There are a few tables, but the counter stools give the best view of the short-order action. Continue reading
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