the road | the food | a new direction
One of the problems we have with fast-food chains is how the food’s had all traces of regionality wrung out of it. To a large extent, the success of national or global fast-food chains depends on their ability to serve the same burger and fries in Maine that’s served in New Mexico. So we think it’s interesting when we encounter a local fast-food chain serving something unique to its region, like Runza does in Nebraska. Continue reading
We first fell in love with Jim Lahey’s pizzas at his Sullivan Street Bakery, back when it was actually doing business on Sullivan Street (it moved to Hell’s Kitchen in 2000). We would devise any sort of pretext for passing by the bakery, where we’d stop in for a slice of his extraordinary potato pizza or pizza bianca. So we were thrilled when, in 2009, Mr. Lahey opened Co. (pronounced company), his first actual pizza shop. Continue reading
In the ongoing and certainly never-ending debate over which KC Q joints reign supreme, and which have passed their prime, let us nominate LC’s in the former category. For our money, LC’s is one of the greats, in Kansas City or anywhere.
We’re suckers for farmers markets, both at home and when we travel. We love to cook, so when we’re home we focus on the just-picked produce piled in colorfully billowing mounds on the tables and in baskets. We love to eat, so when we travel, we wistfully ogle the fresh fruit and veggies but focus our serious attention on the local cheeses, breads, wines, juices, pastries, and prepared foods. Continue reading
Built in the late 19th century, Old Country Store was, in fact, an old country store. Today, it is a country restaurant serving a classic Southern buffet for very little money. Pull off Highway 61 in the tiny town of Lorman, north of Natchez, and park in front of what you would swear is part of a movie set depicting Mississippi circa 1920. Yet this is no movie set, or modernized, made-to-look-old theme restaurant. Continue reading
Chef Leo LeDoux’s menu utilizes an assortment of locally produced products, wild seafood, and antibiotic-free meats, prepared in whatever manner strikes his fancy. You’ll find plenty of Asian and Mediterranean influences as well as traditional comfort foods such as French onion soup and pasta and meatballs. Fresh vegetables abound. It’s a clean, pure, and vibrant cuisine that impresses more with freshness and quality ingredients than in-your-face excess. Continue reading
It was just a grilled cheese sandwich. That’s all we tried at Rubi’s, a single sandwich split between the two of us. But what a sandwich! Pullman slices enclose Comté and the optional tomato (which turns out to be roasted yellow specimens, full of flavor). The sandwich is wrapped up and THEN gets placed in the grill press. Press isn’t quite the right word, though, because while the sandwich is grilled on both sides simultaneously it does not get heavily compressed (unlike the grilled cheese we make at home, which gets pressed down hard in the pan as it cooks). Continue reading
Like many other folks who visit Vermont, we like to stay in inns and B&Bs. That presents a major obstacle to dining at places like Up for Breakfast, which really only serves breakfast. It stays open until 12:30 p.m. during the week and 1:30 p.m. on weekends, so your best bet if you want to enjoy both your inn breakfast and Up for Breakfast is to try to hit the restaurant on the weekend. Have an early breakfast at the inn, then plan for a second, lunchtime breakfast here. But weekends are also the busiest time for the upstairs eatery, so put your name on the waiting list about an hour before you’d like to dine. Continue reading
Why does ice cream taste better in New England than anywhere else in the country? We don’t have an answer, but as long as we keep travelling the area, we’ll keep tasting. There are boutique, one-shop stores offering superb hand-crafted renditions, and there are small companies that also turn out a product superior to the national brands. Gifford’s is one such Maine-owned ice cream maker that buys its cream locally and sells all over New England. Gifford’s premium ice cream has an honest flavor that we never tire of. Continue reading
Traditional New England cuisine has a lot to recommend it but whether you’re talking about jonnycakes or Indian pudding, lobster rolls or Anadama bread, clam chowder or baked beans , one thing it’s not is spicy and vibrant. Not that we’re complaining, mind you, but the modern American palate accustomed to the cuisines of Asia may find itself in need of the occasional jolt. And that’s where Thai Basil enters the picture. Continue reading
Cajun Mkt. Donut Co. has a new name (they used to call themselves Meche’s Donut King) and a new look, but the donuts, stuffed breads, and Cajun kolaches have not changed. They make what has been called Acadiana’s best king cake, and they are also, of course, a donut shop. We’ve tried neither king cake (a Mardi Gras specialty) nor donuts at Cajun Market, yet we still highly recommend a breakfast visit for a few unique items we did try. Continue reading
The Dorset Union Store was started in 1816 as a member-owned cooperative. Then-owner Perry Peltier changed the name to Peltier’s in 1955. When the current owners purchased the store in 2007, the name reverted back to its original Dorset Union Store. We like the ring of it. We also like how the store has achieved a perfect balance between old and new. Continue reading
This was Zally’s restaurant! Who is Zally, you ask? Zal Yanovsky was famous for three things: he was lead guitarist for the Lovin’ Spoonful; he was ostracized by the ’60s counterculture for allegedly ratting on his dealer when he was picked up for possession; and, in the ’70s, back home in Canada, he opened Chez Piggy. Zally died in 2002. Chez Piggy is now owned by Zally’s daughter, Zoe. Learn more about Zally by listening to The Mamas and the Papas song, Creeque Alley. Continue reading
What are you looking for from your visit to Vermont? A beautiful, small, old town? Dorset was founded in 1761; today it’s postcard-ready. A cozy old inn? The Dorset Inn first opened in 1796. Good New England food? The current menu at the restaurant in The Dorset Inn features chicken pot pie, turkey croquettes, locally smoked meats and cheeses from local farms, and cheesecake made by nuns a few miles to the east of Dorset. You can enjoy all this beside a roaring fire in an 18th-century dining room.
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We don’t have cafeterias where we live (at least none that we’d want to eat in), so we’re always impressed, when traveling in a cafeteria-rich region of America, with the bounty of home-style cooking that can be enjoyed in one with the same ease, and minimal expense, of visiting a fast-food chain back home. We normally avoid chain restaurants during our travels, but one cafeteria chain we enjoy when passing through Indiana is MCL. Born in Indianapolis in 1950, MCL now numbers 19 primarily-Indiana restaurants. Continue reading
We’re impressed: Brasserie L’Oustau de Provence does reasonably capture much of the French brasserie experience. The bright, country-French Provencal-styled restaurant hits most of the old French country classics; this is not the spot for cutting edge cuisine. That’s not what a brasserie is about. Continue reading
There’s no shortage of great breakfast spots in Chicago, many of which can be found all over the net. Let us add one of our favorites to the mix, Andersonville’s m. henry. Their motto is “chow for now,” which apparently refers to a modern food sensibility that focuses on locally sourced and organic provisions and healthy eating. But, clearly, taste comes first here because the breakfasts we’ve tried have been sensational. Continue reading
Alright, let us get all the lame puns out of our system before we begin: we are devout fans of the heavenly cheesecake from New Skete; it’s divine. You’ll find nun better. Eating a slice is a religious experience. Our cheesecake prayers have been answered. (Deep breath.) Had enough? So have we. Continue reading
The northeast coast of Florida is one of the country’s great shrimping regions, and it’s said to be the birthplace of the commercial shrimping industry. The specific variety of shrimp pulled from the sea varies with the time of year, and we won’t pretend to understand all the differences between them. What we found during a March trip through the region were shrimp that were uniformly soft and dry, with fugitive flavor. Not among our favorites, though they are much loved by others. The best we found were served at O’Steen’s in St. Augustine. Continue reading
The Quaker is a diner for diner lovers. The brick-exterior little restaurant was built in 1931 by Aristides “Harry” Bassilakis, and the diner appears little changed from those early days (there’s a 1930s photo of the Quaker floating around on the net, and you’d be hard-pressed to identify any physical changes). It is run today by descendents of Mr. Bassilakis. Continue reading
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