REVIEW

Corned Beef Row. The name designates an area that was once the center of Jewish life in Baltimore. Today, Corned Beef Row consists of Attman’s Deli and little else. Seymour Attman, longtime owner of the deli, has passed on but the deli continues. This once thriving Jewish neighborhood can today seem a little intimidating to some, but a daytime trip to Attman’s (the only time it’s open) will make it worthwhile.

Attman’s menu consists of dozens of these signs posted on every available space.

Enter to the head of the line at the counter, squeeze past those ahead of you (there’s scant room between the waiting customers and the refrigerator cases holding beverages), and proceed to the far side of the counter. While you wait, make your selections from the assorted signs scattered behind, in front of, and over the counter. As you move along, the counter people will wisecrack with each other, the customers, and the occasional street person wandering in.

One of the very few remaining original Corned Beef Row merchants

We recommend the tender and savory corned beef, and the terrific kosher hot dogs, which come garnished with a couple of pieces of sizzled bologna, as Attman’s personal, eccentric signature. The pickles are good, too.

Baltimore has designated this area Corned (or as this sign misstates it) Corn Beef Row.

There is a side room, called the Kibbitz Room, for dining, but much of the clientele order to go. Some of those customers place rather unorthodox orders: how does corned beef and provolone sound? But the counter help don’t miss a beat. You want it, you got it.

We were the lone Kibbitz Room diners, though we understand that during prime lunch hours, the place can get pretty crowded. Prices are extremely reasonable. If you’re in Baltimore, make a point of lunching at Attman’s, and have a taste of Corned Beef Row.

There is now a branch of Attman’s located in Potomac, MD.

LAF TRAK: 

FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: Hot dogs