REVIEW

You can have drippy, juicy one-third, two-thirds, or full-pound burgers, dressed plain or fancy (or just plain weird); a mountain of French fries that were recently whole potatoes; and beer. That’s it. The entire menu. Oh, they’ll also make you a sandwich with the available burger toppings if you’d like, so there’s a grilled cheese, a ham sandwich, a BLT… but you want a burger, preferably in the double (2/3-pound) configuration or larger.

The T.W.A. Whaleback is a double bacon cheeseburger with barbecue sauce. Whaleback is a type of cargo vessel. T.W.A.?

We’re certain there’s nothing artisan or highfalutin about the beef they use in these burgers, not at these prices. But they sure must use some well-fatted beef because these rounds of chopped beef are deliriously juicy. And where there’s beef fat, there’s flavor. Those prices, though; how do they do it? Regular burgers as of summer 2017 begin at $4. Cheese is a quarter. Bacon adds 75 cents. Add a side of those exemplary fries for another buck and a quarter. Want more beef? A triple cheeseburger (that’s a pound of cow) only takes you up to $7.25.

Nobody loves exotic microbrews more than we do. Nonetheless, nothing else feels as appropriate a beverage at Anchor as a big pitcher of easy-drinking Grain Belt.

Some of those toppings are a little interesting. Besides the usual burger garnishes, they have cream cheese and olives, or cream cheese and jalapenos. There’s also one topped with cashews and Swiss cheese, and another crowned with Swiss cheese and pineapple. They have a long roster of local microbrews to enjoy with your burger and fries, but we think the perfect accompaniment is a pitcher of that déclassé, century-old local qauffer, Grain Belt.

Anchor has some off-street parking, accessible from the alley behind the bar.

It really wasn’t that long ago that Anchor Bar served no food at all. Until the 1970s this was one of the many neighborhood bars for those who worked at the port and the local factories. Even today, it still looks and feels like a local tavern. Truth is, though, the Anchor has enjoyed extensive coast-to-coast publicity. So, of course, this is no longer really a longshoremen’s hangout, but so what. That blue-collar spirit remains, as does a rough-and-tumble but friendly service attitude and the nautical “decor.” And now you can eat some top-notch burgers and fries with your beer!

When weather cooperates there is outdoor seating but first-time visitors really should try to dine in the bar to enjoy the complete experience. Also, know this is a cash-only joint.

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FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: T.W.A. Whaleback with fried onions