REVIEW

Built in the late 19th century, Old Country Store was, in fact, an old country store. Today, it is a country restaurant serving a classic Southern buffet for very little money. Pull off Highway 61 in the tiny town of Lorman, north of Natchez, and park in front of what you would swear is part of a movie set depicting Mississippi circa 1920. Yet this is no movie set, or modernized, made-to-look-old theme restaurant.

A view of the dining room from the entrance

Walk up the steps to the creaky wood porch, while admiring the ancient Pepsi ad rusting on the building’s side. Enter to a surprisingly large dining room, sans buffet. That’s in the room to the back and left. It’s not a large buffet, but the food is well-prepared and satisfying.

In true Mississippi grocery/restaurant tradition, little has been done to alter the appearance of Old Country Store.

The deep-fried chicken is juicy and deep-down flavorful. There are ribs, unsauced (there is a tub of sauce to apply, if you want it), and these have a pure essence of pig that’s hard to resist. Greens sitting in their pot likker with hunks of smoked meat, dirty rice, candied yams, and cornbread are also likely to be found on the buffet. Pay at the cash register, and head on your way. What could be bad?

These signs have apparently been here since this was actually the Cohn Bros. store.

LAF TRAK: 

FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: Fried chicken