Connecticut is packed with LAF-worthy pizzerias. The bar has been set awfully high. Can it be possible that Harry’s Bishops Corner clears that bar? With room to spare, based on the Fra Diavolo pie we enjoyed.

Everyone receives a slushy cup of lemon Italian ice at the conclusion of the meal.

The Fra Diavolo is a premium-priced seasonal white pie topped with caramelized onions, intensely sweet roasted tomatoes, chopped shrimp, tiny bay scallops, and pancetta. This is a well-thought-out and perfectly constructed pie. White pies can often be dry, but the caramelized onions and roasted tomatoes offer just the right amount of moisture, and plenty of flavor. The generously applied shellfish are cooked not a second too long. The salty wisps of pancetta play off the sweet seafood beautifully. And, in a final stroke of brilliance, the whole is sprinkled with a scattering of fresh tarragon leaves, an unexpected yet perfectly appropriate flavor accent. The nip from the advertised drizzle of pepper-infused oil was not detectable, and not missed.

There can be no doubt that Connecticut is America’s premier pizza state.

The thin, well-seasoned crust is worthy in its own right; there will be no leftover pizza bones. But this particular pie is more about toppings than crust. A large Fra Diavolo is large indeed. At about $28, we think it’s worth every penny. Alas, it’s no longer on the menu, but the white shrimp and white clams casino pies look like worthy stand-ins.

The menu lists pies under a bewildering assortment of headings: there are Seasonal Pies, Create Your Own Pies, Classic Neapolitan Style Pies, Specialty Pies, and even Gluten Free Pies. But pie is all, other than a few salads, garlic bread, and beverages (and some new panini). Meals conclude with small complimentary cups of house-made slushy lemon sorbet, and the intense and refreshing ice is available by the pint to go.

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BEST THING TO EAT: Fra Diavolo Pizza