REVIEW

Let us tell you a little story: There is a restaurant in Mystic named Kitchen Little. It was a tiny restaurant with a loyal following, located for decades at 135 Greenmanville Avenue. The land on which Kitchen Little sat was owned by the Mystic Seaport. A few years ago, the Seaport decided to sell off some of its real estate holdings, particularly those that had little relation to its core mission. One of those properties was 135 Greenmanville. Kitchen Little had a next door neighbor, also a restaurant, by the name of Sea View Snack Bar. The owners of Sea View purchased 135 Greenmanville from the Seaport and proceeded, according to Kitchen Little’s owner, to triple the rent, forcing Kitchen Little to move.

It’s all outdoors at Twisters.

The story has a happy ending, however, because Kitchen Little found a new, much larger home at a marina on Mason’s Island, across the harbor, still in Mystic. Business is booming. In the meantime, the owners of Sea View Snack Bar set up Twisters Ice Cream in the small building that formerly housed Kitchen Little. Maybe this is capitalism in action, or maybe it feels like dirty dealing. We’re not sure. In any case, the whole episode left a bad taste in our mouths and we’ve avoided Sea View and Twisters over the years. Until now.

So we stopped into Twisters for a couple of cones. Nothing more. Just dipped our toes in the water. They were fine (the cones, not our toes, which are also fine). The view across the Mystic River is better than fine. Came away, though, not feeling completely comfortable with having visited (for those old enough to remember what we’re talking about, we sometimes still get a needless pang of guilt when we purchase a head of iceberg lettuce!). Will we return? Probably not. Should you visit? That’s entirely up to you.

LAF TRAK: 

FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: Twist cone with chocolate sprinkles