Left at the Fork

the road | the food | a new direction

Testicles, Rattlesnake, and Yak

Denver’s Buckhorn Exchange is more than a restaurant. It’s a piece of history from the American West, founded in 1893. Bill Dutton, GM of the restaurant, says, “As great as our steak is, you can have steak as good or better in many other cities.” His point is not to denigrate his restaurant’s steaks, but to point out that you really should order Buckhorn’s exotic meats. Larry Olmsted, in his story about the Buckhorn for USA Today, agrees. He loves the place but it’s for the entire, mounted-animal-head, Buffalo-Bill-Cody-ate-here package that he is won over: “[W]ith exceptions like the prime rib and Rocky Mountain oysters, nothing was stunning (except the crazy good hot Dutch apple pie).” We’d agree, except to say we did not fall in love with the fried testicles. Every visitor to Denver should go to the Buckhorn at least once.

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