Left at the Fork

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Shapiro’s of Indy Opening New Northside Location

Shapiro’s Deli of Indianapolis closed their Carmel location last year after 11 years of doing business on the north side of the city. The deli business in Carmel was weak. Now they’ve announced that a new north side Shapiro’s, to be located in The Fashion Mall at Keystone, will arrive this November. Service at the restaurant, unlike at the original on Meridian, will not be cafeteria-style. Menu selection will be more limited than at the flagship, and there’ll be some modern menu updates to appeal to changing tastes. Not to worry, long-time Shapiro’s fans, the famous corned beef and pastrami will still be found in the mall location.

Nashville Hot Chicken Coming to NYC

Have you ever been to Nashville and sampled the explosively good hot chicken to be found in the Music City? If you’re anything like us, you’ve been left, like an addict, with a permanent yearning for the stuff. Well, New York City, your hot chicken connection will be coming to the rescue, hopefully in spring of next year. That’s when Carla Hall hopes to open her Nashville-themed restaurant. Besides the hot chicken, Carla wants to feature a selection from the vast roster of Southern sides that makes dining in the region so memorable. Ms. Hall began a Kickstarter campaign this week, if you’d like to get in on the action.

ME Casa, Jersey City NJ

REVIEW

We won’t pretend to be experts on Puerto Rican cuisine, but we are experts on what we like. And we like what’s served at the small and unobtrusive, below-street-level ME Casa very much. The owners call the cuisine Puerto Rican-inspired, not Puerto Rican. The mofongo sure seemed like the real thing. Mofongo begins with green plantains, which are fried and then pounded with garlic and chicharrones in a mortar-and-pestle-like device called a pilon. At least, the best ones, like that served at ME Casa, use a pilon. The result, a garlicky mound filled with crusty bits, reminds us texturally of Thanksgiving stuffing. Choose your topping: beef, shrimp, or chicken. This is very easy-to-enjoy eating, Puerto Rican soul food. Continue reading

Green Chile Cheeseburger Time in Santa Fe

Fall is prime time for green chile lovers in New Mexico, as that’s when the pods are harvested and roasted. One of the most popular uses for the vegetable is as a garnish on a green chile cheeseburger. There are as many thoughts on what constitutes a proper GCCB as there are GCCB fanatics. Should the chile be whole, chopped, or a sauce? Which should speak loudest, the beef or the chile? Hot or mild? A garnish or a flood? With or without lettuce, tomato, onion, or bacon? We love the GCCB as much as anyone, and our preferences are for hot chile and no other garnishes to dilute the chile flavor. And we think the chile is more important than the meat. Continue reading

Pepe’s Interruptus

Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana of New Haven, CT and the city of Boston have been conducting a courtship dance since March. It looked like a done deal. The Fireplace, of Brookline, was to close its doors in December, and Pepe’s was to move into that vacated spot. The people of Boston rejoiced! Alas, Pepe’s penetration into the Boston market was not to be, as the owner of The Fireplace, Jim Solomon, withdrew his offer to make way for the Connecticut pizzeria. Like a wallflower who is suddenly dazzled by the attention, Mr. Solomon decided to stay and enjoy the party. Not that we blame him. But the birth of a Boston Pepe’s will just have to wait.

Lou’s Steak Shop, Norristown PA

REVIEW

We’re sitting at the counter enjoying our sandwiches when the cook addresses the old man eating soup and crackers to our left: “You doin’ OK? Are these people bothering you?” He motions toward us. The man smiles and continues spooning into his bowl of soup. “What kind of shake you got?” Now he’s talking to us. Our waitress fixed us a superlative chocolate shake. He scrunched up his face. “I only like banella shakes. You know banella? The little kids down the street, they come in here asking for banella, now they got me saying it.” Continue reading

B & W Bakery, Hackensack NJ

REVIEW

Have you had New Jersey-style crumb cake? If you’re not from the Northeast it’s likely you haven’t. Once you do you may find that standard issue crumb cake just doesn’t do it for you anymore. What makes the Jersey edition unique is how the crumb cake concept is turned on its head. It’s all about the crumbs. Oh, there’s cake, but the half-inch of pastry supports four times its height in sweet crumbs!

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Diner Grill, Chicago IL

REVIEW

Molecular cuisine, it’s not. Chicago does offer three Michelin stars at Grant Achatz’s cutting edge Alinea, but does Alinea offer a slinger in a repurposed trolley car? No, for that you’ll have to travel ten minutes north, to the neighborhood of Lakeview, and the notorious Diner Grill.

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