REVIEW

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory is one of the most understated ice cream parlors we’ve ever visited. It’s basically a counter inside a small historic old building. There’s little need for ice cream-themed razzle-dazzle inside when the stunning Brooklyn waterfront serves as an incomparable dining room outside.

Were pretty certain these are here for show, although seltzer is an ideal accompaniment to ice cream.

When we say understated, we’re not only referring to the facilities, but to the ice cream itself. Selection is limited to a handful of rarely changing classic flavors, all prepared in a less-is-more style. The texture is what we think of as old-fashioned rather than palate-numbingly rich. The sweetness is kept to a bare minimum. The flavors are true and clear, with none of the harshly blaring brassiness found in ice creams concocted in the laboratories of the chains.

That’s the Brooklyn Bridge peeking out from the left.

The pale pink strawberry seems, to our palates, to have a quietly muted cream cheese flavor in the background, as if it contains churned fresh strawberry cheesecake. The low sugar content allows the natural dairy flavors to step forward, accompanied by the berries’ brightness. Wonderful. The peaches and cream, like the strawberry, is of a pastel shade. Fresh peaches are used, and the result is a flavor that, rather than shouting at you, speaks in dulcet tones.

The syrups and toppings are said to be as good as the ice cream. We’ve yet to try them. Prices are New York City high, but you’ll get one of the best views to be had in New York along with terrific ice cream.

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BEST THING TO EAT: Strawberry ice cream