the road | the food | a new direction

Month: September 2014 (Page 2 of 2)

Pepe’s Interruptus

Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana of New Haven, CT and the city of Boston have been conducting a courtship dance since March. It looked like a done deal. The Fireplace, of Brookline, was to close its doors in December, and Pepe’s was to move into that vacated spot. The people of Boston rejoiced! Alas, Pepe’s penetration into the Boston market was not to be, as the owner of The Fireplace, Jim Solomon, withdrew his offer to make way for the Connecticut pizzeria. Like a wallflower who is suddenly dazzled by the attention, Mr. Solomon decided to stay and enjoy the party. Not that we blame him. But the birth of a Boston Pepe’s will just have to wait.

Lou’s Steak Shop, Norristown PA

REVIEW

We’re sitting at the counter enjoying our sandwiches when the cook addresses the old man eating soup and crackers to our left: “You doin’ OK? Are these people bothering you?” He motions toward us. The man smiles and continues spooning into his bowl of soup. “What kind of shake you got?” Now he’s talking to us. Our waitress fixed us a superlative chocolate shake. He scrunched up his face. “I only like banella shakes. You know banella? The little kids down the street, they come in here asking for banella, now they got me saying it.” Continue reading

B & W Bakery, Hackensack NJ

REVIEW

Have you had New Jersey-style crumb cake? If you’re not from the Northeast it’s likely you haven’t. Once you do you may find that standard issue crumb cake just doesn’t do it for you anymore. What makes the Jersey edition unique is how the crumb cake concept is turned on its head. It’s all about the crumbs. Oh, there’s cake, but the half-inch of pastry supports four times its height in sweet crumbs!

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Diner Grill, Chicago IL

REVIEW

Molecular cuisine, it’s not. Chicago does offer three Michelin stars at Grant Achatz’s cutting edge Alinea, but does Alinea offer a slinger in a repurposed trolley car? No, for that you’ll have to travel ten minutes north, to the neighborhood of Lakeview, and the notorious Diner Grill.

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