REVIEW

“Barbecue” is very popular in parts of upstate New York, but the barbecue to which we refer is nothing like what you’ll find throughout America’s Barbecue Belt. This Q is not smoked, and consists of chopped pork or chicken, or roast beef, in a barbecue sauce, on a hamburger bun. At Voss the meat is always sliced, not chopped, and the flaps are piled on the bun, then topped with the sauce. The sandwiches are mellow and enjoyable, and a real taste of upstate NY.

On this rare balmy November day in the Utica area, some people are dining outside, others are waiting for their plastic letters to be called.

Another Voss specialty is the hot dog (also an upstate NY favorite). They recently swapped out locally made dogs for Zweigle’s, made in Rochester (about two hours west along the Thruway), creating a mini-dustup in the Utica culinary scene. Zweigle’s dogs are quite good but, local or Zweigle’s, what really makes these pups special are the lode of toppings available.

Each frank comes with your choice of three toppings or, if you prefer, you can select one of the specialty combos. The Mexi-All-The-Way dog has chili, onions, and pickles, grated cheddar on top, and is a pile of hot dog heaven. There is also a Chili-All-The-Way and, although it was explained to us, we still don’t understand how it differs from a Mexi-All-The-Way.

The building is a classic from the early part of the last century, wedged on a spit of land that juts between the main road and another restaurant. There is a neon hot dog on the roof and, above that, a giant milk bottle with the Voss name inscribed, testament to the excellent milk shakes (served thin or thick) and ice cream available here. After you place your order, you are given a magnetic plastic letter or number. Listen for your digit, then take your food to the nice grove of tables next to the stand, and dive into a classic upstate New York meal.

Note that Voss is not open during the brutal Utica winters.

LAF TRAK: 

FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: Ham BBQ