REVIEW

Western New York often seems to have more in common with the upper Midwest than with downstate New York. For instance, walk into almost any restaurant on a Friday night and, regardless of the sort of food the eatery normally serves, you’ll probably find a dining room filled with people eating fish fry, just like in Wisconsin. Local wisdom says that it’s difficult to find a bad fish fry in the Buffalo area. That might be true, but it’s also true that if you value fresh, not frozen, fish, then there are choices to be made.

A traditional WNY Friday fish fry

Our choice is McPartlan’s Corner. This is a classic Buffalo tavern and it’s extremely popular for Friday fish fry. You WILL wait for a table. Leave your name and take your place with the crowds at the bar, on the benches in the vestibule, or outside. Names are called over a PA system.

The bread basket holds slices of good fresh rye bread.

McPartlan’s consists of two dining rooms and a bar, and the atmosphere is family-tavern casual. The fresh haddock fillet is served on the skin, wrapped in a well-salted crumb crust, and served with a particularly good tartar sauce. There are various potatoes available on the side. The German potato salad is a warm cup of diced potatoes in a bacony sweet-and-sour dressing, lightened with sliced fresh celery. The slaw is crisp, fresh, and decidedly unsweet. Macaroni salad is like the kind you make at home.

A Western New York tavern is the perfect environment for partaking in the local ritual of Friday Fish Fry.

There are broiled fish options, and a full menu of other solid American-style fare, such as pork chops and liver and onions, and bar favorites like wings, weck, and burgers. We’ve only tried the fish fry.

LAF TRAK: 

FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: German potato salad