REVIEW

An enoteca in Italy refers to anything from a wine store to a wine bar to a restaurant with a special focus on wine. Unlike in the US, wine in Italy practically requires a food accompaniment, so these wine bars will always have something available to eat (even a wine tasting during a winery visit will often come with a plate of salumi and bread). Also unlike the US, where wine bars can seem like serious and studied (and expensive) temples to fermented grape juice, Italian enotecas are casual places often serving a limited selection of the local rustic specialties.

Peposo is a beef stew specialty of the region around Montepulciano. Tomatoes and lots of black pepper combined with long cooking results in a dish that would satisfy any fan of American Southwest chili.

They can be the ideal choice for the traveler who doesn’t want to tackle a full-course Italian meal at midday, but wants something more than pizza-by-the-yard or a panini. Our favorite Italian enoteca is Bengodi (Bengodi is the mythical culinary paradise with a Parmigiano mountain). Casual, friendly owner, good food and wine. And inexpensive.

Pici are a thick pasta specialty of southern Tuscany. They are generally handmade, although these don’t appear to be. Much like extra thick spaghetti, with a wonderfully toothsome quality.

Petto di tacchino – turkey breast. The turkey is stuffed with pancetta and the roasting results in a well-browned crust. That’s a ratatouille-like stew of vegetables on the side – we could eat those every day for lunch!

LAF TRAK: 

FOOD: 

BEST THING TO EAT: Peposo alla Bengodi con le Patate Lesse

Lightly toasted Tuscan bread bathed in excellent local oil, topped with diced fresh tomatoes, the whole scented with fresh garlic

Tuna and well-marinated dried tomatoes over radicchio. The tomatoes stood in for artichokes today.

Bare wood tables, exposed brick, and wine bottles

A private dining room for those who favor total wine immersion